Beginner’s Guide: Sólheimajökull Glacier Hike
The first time I led a nervous traveler onto Sólheimajökull, she stopped at the edge of the ice and whispered, “Is this even allowed?” The wind came off Mýrdalsjökull like a cold hand. Black volcanic ash striped the glacier like old runes. I laughed, not unkindly. In Iceland we do not conquer the ice. We […]